Sitting on the deck at Nepenthe we could see the whales head past, black backs and white skin rising above the waves. One drifted onto its side, raising a fin to the air. They were coming in close, right uo to the kelp forests at the foot of the cliffs. Then suddenly they were gone.
To the south we could see a ruffled patch of water, as if a squall was disturbing the water. Oddly it was moving quite slowly, at least compared to the speed of a burst of wind. It was also keeping roughly the same distance from the coast, paralleling the rocky shoreline. Someone who'd seen it earlier said it was dolphins, chasing a huge school of sardines. It wasn't the usual pod of five or ten or fifteen - this was a dozen or more pods working together, a swarm of hundreds of dolphins.
The sun had just set by the time they came to Nepenthe, a roiling mass of black sleek bodies rising and falling out of the sea, of sharp fins and exuberant leaps.
As always my camera was ready.
Click through to the full size image to see just how many dolphins there were.